Happy New Year

This is the blog for 31st December - though I am writing this at (local time) 00.45 on January 1st 2013. We seem to have been celebrating New Year all evening in recognition of passengers' different home time zones - the Aussies were first.

A very quite day at sea -so just one picture of  a Cape Petrel...

Happy New Year to all our followers and friends - from the the middle of Drake's Passage; which luckily for us is still "Drake's Lake".  It's certainly the strangest place we have celebrated New Year!

Awe and Wonder

So - this is the day of our last landing and also we set foot on the Antarctic mainland.  The plan was to arrive at Neko Harbour at about 9.00 where, luckily and by chance, our landing group was to be the first ashore.  We were certainly on time because, once again, we have sailed on a mill-pond.  However the Captain stopped the ship (in the middle of breakfast) for us to view a family of Orcas (Killer Whales) and more humpback whales.  This was a great start to the day.  We just had time to go back to finish our breakfast before the landing.

There were colonies of Gentoos and a spectacular view of a glacier, just across the inlet.  We were told not to stray on to the shoreline because if the glacier were to ‘calve’ (that is, a large lump of ice would break from the front of the glacier to form a new iceberg) it would set up a tidal wave that would crash on to the beach. 

Julia had said last night that the final things to ‘make’ the holiday would be to set foot on the mainland of the Antarctic Continent and to witness the calving of an iceberg.  Well, the first part was easy to arrange - but the second?

We had been ashore for about 20 minutes and had listened to some ominous booms which seemed to come from deep in the glacier.  We sat on rocks opposite just to gaze at this monolithic ice – for once, ignoring the antics of the penguins around us.  Then – yes, you’ve guessed it – there was a mighty crack and huge shards of ice tumbled into the sea setting off a wave that rushed to the beach we had been banned from entering.  It was, as our American friends say, “awesome”.

There was a chance for more penguin-watching after this – we saw eggs but no chicks – before, reluctantly we had to leave this majestic place and return to the ship.  We enjoyed our last Polar Cirkel boat trip as it cut through thin layers of ice on its way back to MS Fram.

This was a magical place and will hold some very special memories.  Haydn writes about the ‘wonder of his works’ in Creation – well, this was a time and place for wondering.

In the afternoon we were taken through the Lemaire Chanel, a narrow gorge with mountains rising to 1000 feet on each side.  Where the gorge opens out to a wider channel the water is shallow and icebergs get trapped in what is known as an ‘iceberg graveyard’. 

It is a really peculiar landscape as you look out and see the remnants of icebergs as far as the eye can see in all sorts of weird shapes and sizes. We reached 65 degrees 14 minutes south before turning north again.

Once through the channel we were heading for open water and we now have two days at sea as we head across Drake’s Passage and back to Tierra del Fuego.  This can be the roughest water in the world as it swirls around the foot of South America and the Pacific Ocean meets the Atlantic.  But it can also be ‘Drake’s Lake’ – flat calm; and that is what it is now… wish us luck!

Two more landings

Every landing we make is different. Today, December 29^th (is that Saturday…?), we landed on Deception Island in the morning.  This is the top of a collapsed volcano or ‘caldera’ so it is circular in shape – but it does have a break in the circle where the ship can get in.  It is very sheltered and has previously been home to a whaling station.  This time the landing was not about wildlife but rather a chance to wonder at the geology and scenery and take in the views.  We undertook a walk lasting about 90 minutes around a ridge with some steep(ish) climbs.  Underfoot it was quite pleasant, a carpet of volcanic ash.  The wind blew a bit, especially on the tops, and we were glad of the many layers of thermal gear that we have invested in.

The island is totally arid with no plant life so the scenery is a bit like the penguins – black and white…

The afternoon landing was on tiny Astrolabe Island.  Penguins were to the fore again – Adelie, Chinstrap and Gentoo all living in close proximity.  There were also a few Weddell and Fur seals.  They generally just lay about sleeping when on land – but this Weddell  seal decided to smile for the camera and do a bit of acrobatics.

The extra on this landing was that instead of the Polar Cirkel boat taking us back to the ship it made a detour among the large ice floes in the bay where penguins and seals were sitting and around small rocky islets where cormorants, gulls and terns were nesting.  Ice crunches under the boat and occasionally you get a get a face full of spray to keep you awake.

Another good day and tomorrow we land on the mainland – so that will really will be Antarctica.

Made it at last...

Hooray – made it at last.  Today we set foot (twice) on the continent of Antarctica – first at the Polish research station, Arctowski, and then in the late afternoon on Half Moon Island.  And just to cap a great day, during the period we were back on the ship we saw humpback whales breeching the sea.  The Captain moved the ship closer so that we had close-up views of two humpbacks.

During our morning landing we saw Gentoo penguins and our first Adelie penguins too.  The Adelies were giving a great show in the water as they ‘torpedoed’ like dolphins do.  There were also good views of Blue-eyed Cormorants.  Elephant seals were lounging around while two young Elephant seal bulls were testing each other’s strength in the water.

On Half Moon Island we now encountered our first colony of Chinstrap penguins (sometimes known as ‘Jackass’ because of the racket they make).  In amongst the Chinstraps was a lone Macaroni penguin – a bit lost and a bit mournful in his cries because no-one was answering them.  Snowy Sheathbills lurked among the penguins and were not made welcome as they will take eggs at any opportunity.  Wilson’s Storm Petrels were nesting in the rocks – but were difficult to photograph as they are very speedy fliers.  It is unusual to see these birds in this context – in the Northern Hemisphere they are nocturnal and down here you only see them speeding across the waves – unless, like us, you are able to land on one of the islands where they breed.

The scenery is magnificent – craggy snow covered peaks, with their tops swathed in clouds, either side of the cliff-faces of huge glaciers that dip into the sea.  The glaciers glint blue (even though we had very little sun) and you can see the cracks and crevasses that hint that an iceberg will soon calve into the ocean.  The silence is only broken by the neighing of the penguins that make us smile with their Charlie Chaplin walks and occasional tumbles in the soft snow.

It is just about impossible to choose photographs for today – we will be filling many books when we get back.

But here is my choice:

• a Chinstrap penguin
• humpback whales (to make up for yesterday’s long distance shot)
• a landscape

Two more landings tomorrow – we can’t wait… and once again the sea has been absolutely flat calm.

Frustration

The title of today's blog refers to both the ship's WiFi and the journey!  Today we have been on a huge detour to avoid the unseasonable ice.  The weather has been calm and very grey - we have been travelling through fog which is caused by the Atlantic  Convergence where warmer air meets cold.  But, on the plus side, it is flat calm - though the wind is bitter if you go on deck. Tomorrow there should be a landing on Half Moon Island which is part of the Antarctic Archipelago and also another landing at a Polish research station.  Let's hope so.

I am posting the photos that I intended to show on Boxing Day (I think...?) because at last I am able to use my laptop again.

So here is the ice we went through on Boxing Day + the Silver Fulmar + the whale sightings...

Boxing Day - a day late

The WiFi on the ship is completely naff at the moment.  I cannot get on from my laptop and so am waiting around for the PCs available to the public- and they don't work very well either. So - it is before breakfast on Thursday 27th - Julia has gone to the gym (!) and I thought I would get online before anyone else - good idea but it has been a pain waiting for this to work...
As I can't use my laptop I can't post photos.
Boxing Day was spent at sea.  Quiet morning, some photography on deck (mostly trying to capture little birds that whizz by), some lectures, some reading - then lunch.
An afternoon lecture about the original Fram was interesting.  It was specifically built (around 1900) to get stuck in the north polar ice so that it would then follow the currents of the Arctic Ocean, allowing scientists to study where these currents go.  Not  a pleasant job sitting in the boat for 5 years.  The ship survived (as did the men!) and it was later used for Roald Amundsen on his expedition to reach the South Pole in 1912 - the venture which saw him beat Robert Falcon Scott to the pole.
In the afternoon things got more interesting outside.  All day we had been following the edge of the pack ice on our port side (the LEFT - we are heading south-west - for all you non-nautical types) but there was excitement all round when we actually started to cut our way through the ice.  Having watched films and read books about Shackleton and the Endurance getting stuck this was all very 'interesting'.  The ship slowed and we bumped along but emerged safely into clear water - the captain sounding the ship's horn  as we broke clear.  Apparently the ice is much further north than it should be and plans are changing all the time. We now have another day at sea as we try to reach the Antarctic archipelago.  So we are not sure when next we will make a landing - or where...
The afernoon brought good views of Fin whales - and I had pictures ready to show you... Also a new bird on film - the Silver-backed Southern Fulmar - a very handsome bird.  It is a good shot - but I can't show you I'm afraid.
It is disappointing that I cannot keep all you avid readers as up-to-date as I would like - but I suppose we are a long way away and a bit remote; we still expect modern technology to just spring into action don't we?
Anyway - Julia has just finished her workout and it is time for breakfast.
Bye for now...

Christmas Day

December 25th – Christmas Day 2012.  I expect our day has been very different from yours…but in some ways similar.  We started with card and present opening – 2 cards each (one from the cat of course) and just one present.  A good part of Christmas Day in the UK seems to consist of sitting wearily looking at the TV and falling asleep – well, we’ve done that as well; but looking at the ocean instead of Strictly or HMQ.

We are now heading seriously south and the sea is like a millpond – we are very lucky as both of us are not feeling too good today.  Julia has developed a cold and somehow I have been suffering from hangover type symptoms – despite the fact that we only had two glasses of red wine with our Christmas meal last night (honest!).  It was our first alcohol of the trip so perhaps I am just out of the habit?

It is now 17.30 and at last I am perking up.  Haven’t eaten much all day but will be ready for my roast beef at 20.00.

Julia has been to a couple of lectures while I have read and slumbered.  We are both now going to a film about Ernest Shackleton.  The film has shown us a story that we now know well – but it continues to amaze.

We have just had a Tannoy announcement that a huge iceberg is coming up so it’s a quick scramble to put some warmer clothes on to go out and get a good look and hopefully some good shots. Here is the evidence: (though it is difficult for you to judge scale)

Our course has been diverted away from  South Orkney because reports are telling the Captain that it is surrounded by impenetrable pack ice.  So we will be forging ahead to the South Shetlands and the Antarctic Peninsula – it means another day at sea; which will be fine if the weather stays like this.

South Georgia (2)

Today, Christmas Eve, we tied up in the sheltered bay at Grytviken, the only place that is populated throughout the year on South Georgia.  Before our landings we were visited by members of  the South Georgia Heritage Trust who explained the very expensive work they are undertaking to eradicate rats, an introduced species, from the island.  The rats came ashore with the sealers and whalers and are having a devastating effect on the wildlife – especially the smaller birds whose eggs they eat.  We pledged some money (as did many of our fellow travellers) to the charity – enough to clear a hectare of land.  Workers from the Post Office also came on board to sell us postcards and stamps. Some of you will receive these – but it may be February before they arrive!

Then our landings began at this derelict whaling station which now houses a research centre – plus a museum and shop, a church…and the Post Office (there really is a man with a Royal Mail shirt on…).  This landing was more about history than wildlife although the obligatory seals (Fur and Elephant) and penguins were in evidence, plus some Antarctic Terns.

Our first visit was to the small and beautifully kept cemetery where Ernest Shackleton is buried.  Very recently the ashes of Frank Wild, whom Shackleton called his “right arm”, have also been interred there.

Next all 200 of us crammed into the immaculate white wooden church, shipped from Norway in 1913, for a simple service.  The Captain spoke; we sang two carols and the church bells rang.  There was also some impromptu carol singing around the small wheezy organ afterwards – which I joined in lustily of course.  It was quite emotional and a special moment that we will always treasure.  It is amazing to reflect on who has been here before us and what privations they must have suffered working in this remote place.  However, for us, once again the weather was kind.  The sun was out and you could move about without hat and gloves.

We also had a thought for all those so many miles away with whom we normally spend Christmas.

The museum is fascinating, showing how the whalers and sealers went about their trade.  In a building next door is something even more ‘mind boggling’ – a reconstruction of the ‘James Caird’, the boat that brought Shackleton and 5 others 800 miles from Elephant Island to South Georgia and salvation.  You know it is a remarkable story when you read it – when you see the boat, it just fills you with amazement.  These men were certainly a hardy breed – quite extraordinary.

I am writing this mid-afternoon on Monday 24^th December.  We now have the rest of today and tomorrow at sea.  We are heading south and are already surrounded by icebergs – which seem to be getting bigger.  The sea is calm, the sky is blue – it is a wonderful sight.

The Norwegians celebrate Christmas on Christmas Eve so tonight there is a special buffet dinner.  First we all met in the lounge where the Captain led another Christmas service with some carols.  Ryton Choral Society was to the fore with the singing... Before we ate, the catering manager explained some of the Scandanavian 'delicacies' on offer.  Thankfully turkey and Brussels sprouts also appeared.  We celebrated with our first glasses of red wine.

The Captain had 'parked up' in a secluded bay so that we could eat our meal in peace.  As I complete this piece at 22.45 we have set off again and the ship is beginning to roll a little.  Hopefully we will not suffer for our little bit of over-eating.

Tomorrow, Christmas Day, we will be at sea.  We wish all our many readers a very Merry Christmas. There is a rumour that Santa is coming...

South Georgia (1)

After the ups and downs (and side to sides) of recent times, we awoke to calmer waters.  We have reached South Georgia and are moored in the safety of Fortuna Bay on Sunday 23^rd December.  Despite the vagaries of the Fram’s Wi-Fi I was able to ascertain that NUFC had a magnificent 1-0 win over ‘Arry’s QPR – howay the lads (though I note that the Mackems had an away win – but only over Southampton….).

We are now within the cold waters of the Antarctic Convergence and our first icebergs have been sighted. Not of titanic proportions but impressive all the same. 

Our landing was on to a beach covered in Fur Seals and they have to be given a reasonably wide berth because they can be aggressive (well, more defensive I suppose) as they all have young.  And baby seals are real cute…

So we picked our way carefully through the seals and made our way to a colony of King Penguins – they look like the Emperor (you know the ones  - ‘March of the Penguins’) but are not so large.  They too have chicks, all of different ages.  The mature chicks are actually larger than their parents because of the layers of fat they have to put on.  They are covered in brown fuzz (feathers really) and are comical to look at.  Some are in the late stages of moulting so just have odd bits of the brown feathers clinging to them – and even funnier sight.

We spotted one Gentoo Penguin as well.  Reindeer were also in evidence.  These are an introduced species (by the Norwegian whalers many years ago) and have now become so successful that they are going to have to be culled because they are eating all the grass needed by the various native species.

All through this landing it was snowing quite heavily.  These conditions meant that the proposed hike ‘in the footsteps of Shackleton’ had to be cancelled.

The Fram moved us on to Stromness Bay for an afternoon landing. The snow stopped and the sun is glinting through.  The landings happen in groups.  We are in Group 3.  It is taken in turns which group goes first and it has come around to us being last so went ashore at about 6.00.  Of course, the light is still very good – well it would be if there was less cloud cover. But we are not complaining – temperatures would not be out of place in Northumberland.

Stromness was where Shackleton made contact with whalers after his epic voyage from Elephant Island and trek across the central mountains of South Georgia.  Although we could not walk in his footsteps we could see the way which he would have come down to the point where we landed.  There are still derelict buildings here from the whaling and sealing past.

Once again we landed among grumpy Fur Seals and then made our way to a Gentoo Penguin colony.  We spent a long time here listening to and watching the birds as youngsters begged for food, adults built nests and saw off marauding Brown Skuas.

There were also nesting Antarctic Terns – acting in much the same way as their cousins do on the Farne Islands.

Just as were about to board the Cirkel to return to the Fram for dinner a lone Chinstrap Penguin was spotted.  We hope to see more later in the expedition.  Julia is even more in love with penguins – but has an aversion to snarling seals with big teeth. 

It was very difficult to choose photos for today.  I would gladly load hundreds but the WiFi won’t allow.  Tomorrow sees another landing on South Georgia – at Grytviken where Shackleton is buried.

Stormy weather

Oh dear – a gale force southerly wind has us in its grip, hitting the ship on the starboard side.  We are definitely rolling as well as pitching now! It is making life “interesting”.  We are on the second day of the long leg of the journey to South Georgia.  We went out for a stroll on deck after breakfast but had to beat a hasty retreat as the wind was so strong – in fact a little bit scary.

So bird watching has taken place from the warm dry observation deck.  We have had good views of wandering albatross, the largest of these majestic birds, light-mantled sooty albatross, grey headed albatross and the pure white snowy petrel too, so have added them to our list.

Photography was tricky so perhaps not up to our normal standard… wandering albatross above, light-mantled sooty below:

It’s really a day for attending lectures –the birds of South Georgia; the physiology of whales; photography in the Antarctic –and just keeping your head down.  We have managed a light lunch and so far, at the time of writing, the anti-sea sickness medication is working.

At the end of the photography there was little bit of excitement as the first whale of the trip was sighted.  The lecturer lost control of his audience as we all rushed to have a look.  It was a very brief glimpse of the fin of a humpback whale- very close to the ship.  Hopefully there are more whales to come…

But as I am adding to this piece just before dinner I can see bright blue sky on the horizon – perhaps better weather is on its way.  Let’s hope so!

And while at dinner we saw penguins and seals swimming alongside.  Things are looking up for a good day tomorrow.

Towards South Georgia

Today, Friday 21^st December is a quiet day at sea as we are making for South Georgia.  However there are preparations to be made.  Everyone had to attend a briefing on the IAATO rules and regulations for making landings on South Georgia and other parts of Antarctica.  IAATO is the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators and they have to work within very strict guidelines to ensure that the region stays pristine and unspoilt.

All of our outerwear has to be thoroughly cleaned.  The boots will be disinfected and we have to hoover our backpacks, trousers and jackets – so no escaping from housework!  This is to ensure that no seeds or dirt that may have stuck to us in other places are dropped on Antarctica.

We have been bird watching from the deck – us and one other chap, an Irishman called Oscar who is really devoted to his birding; he is out there every hour of the day.  He is very knowledgeable and helpful – so we know that we saw:

Cape petrel - photo taken from ship...

Black browed albatross - picture taken on land at New Island (Falklands)

Great southern petrel
Wilson’s storm petrel
Black bellied storm petrel
Giant shearwater
Antarctic prionWhite chinned petrel
Soft plumaged petrel

We also had the chance to visit the Captain on the bridge and to find out a bit about how the ship works – needless to say there is an automatic pilot and lots of very hi-tech equipment.  But it was also nice to see traditional charts with dividers, pencils and compasses sitting on them.

Once again we have been blessed with a fairly calm sea.  The ship does pitch (that means the front pointy end going up and down…) but there is not much roll because the ship’s stabilisers are being used (these are big wing things that stick out the side to stop it rocking and rolling from side to side).  We have a following westerly wind. However, the Captain has warned us that we are heading for a low pressure system with winds from the south that could reach gale force – something to look forward to then….

On South Georgia we have signed up to take part in a hike “in Shackleton’s footsteps” - if we pass the fitness test, that is. Luckily, the test is a visual one – if we look capable of walking 6km over a hill we are OK.  This follows the path of part of the journey that Sir Ernest Shackleton and his men made following their amazing 800mile journey from Elephant Island where his ship ‘Endurance’ was stuck in the ice in 1914.  I will let Julia take up the story…

“There can be fewer more heroic tales than that of Shackleton setting out with 5 members of his crew in the 22 foot long James Caird (one of the lifeboats on the ‘Endurance’) to row the 800 miles across tumultuous seas from Elephant Island to South Georgia to get help to rescue the remaining 22 crew members left behind.  The journey took 16 days and they faced the most appalling weather conditions in the open boat with almost no water, little food, soaking wet clothes and the ballast of stones and boulders in the bottom of the boat to lie on.  Somehow they made it to South Georgia but landed on the western side – all the whaling stations with men and ships that could rescue the crew stranded at Elephant Island were located on the eastern side at Stromness Bay.  Shackleton then took two men and managed another unbelievable feat crossing the completely unknown mountainous interior of South Georgia.  After 36 hours of non-stop walking (Shackleton’s tiny group had taken no sleeping bags with them so could not afford any rest during this time) they finally walked into the whaling station.  The 3 crew members left the other side of South Georgia were rescued in a few days but it took a further 4 months before Shackleton could rescue the 22 crew members left on Elephant Island in the small tug steamer ‘Yelcho’.  Not one man was lost from the crew of the ‘Endurance’.  I would commend anyone to read Shackleton’s account ‘South’ to get a full appreciation of this remarkable and moving tale.”      

Port Stanley

Thursday 20^th – anchored in Port Stanley.  We have chosen to go on the ‘Falkland Nature Walk’ in the morning, followed by lunch on the ship and then the shuttle bus into the centre of the most southerly capital in the world.  There will be an opportunity for penguin paraphernalia shopping surely…

The walk took us through a fairly flat peaty scrubland and around to a silver-sanded beach at Gypsy Cove…

Our guide, Brian, pointed out the various flora – including the splendidly named ‘diddle dee’.  It looks like a low growing rock plant with small red berries – we managed to buy a small pot of ‘diddle dee jam’ in the town.

Birds were not quite so plentiful but we did see:

Magellanic penguins  - this is the penguin that lives in burrows – sometimes you can see their heads just poking out of the entrance…

Black-throated finch
Crested duck
Flightless steamer duck
Black crowned night heron
Rock cormorant
Long tailed meadow lark – rather splendid orangey red on the breast…

Correndera  pipit
Upland goose
Turkey vulture
Red-backed hawk
Kelp gull
Dark-faced ground tyrant
Austral thrush

plus we saw a pair of dolphins swimming very near to shore

We only had a brief time in Stanley but did venture along Thatcher Avenue towards the Governor’s house.  There are plenty of Union flags on show and the GB pound is very welcome.  The metal roofs of the houses are painted in bold colours; there are traditional red telephone boxes and post-boxes and we saw one with a resident lawn mower – a sheep!

We are now setting off on a long leg of the journey to South Georgia – two days at sea.  And the sea seems to be developing some bumps – perhaps I should not have praised the lovely weather earlier in the week.  It could well be time for more preventative medication…

First encounter with the Polar Cirkel boats

Wednesday 19^th and it’s our first chance to set foot on land by using the Polar Cirkel boats.  These only take 8 people at a time but the distance is short and the journey speedy – though it is rather bumpy and splashy.

We had two landings – New Island in the morning and Carcass Island in the afternoon.  These are two very small islands of the west side of the group known as the Falkland Islands.  Each just has a couple of permanent residents and they are run as nature reserves.  The bird life is abundant and has no fear of humans.

New Island is home to a large colony of rockhopper penguins, imperial shags and black-browed albatrosses and we were able to get very close to this wonderful spectacle.

Carcass Island is home to Megallanic penguins that live in burrows and several species that are endemic to the Falklands.  We saw Cobb’s Wren and the tussac bird that you won’t see anywhere else.

It is a bit of palaver getting ready for these landings – how many layers to wear? (we both have erred on the side of caution and have seriously over-heated!); struggling into your life jacket and fighting with your special wellies –plus the slightly nerve-wracking experience of getting into and out of the boats.  But – believe you me – it is worth it.

Today’s bird list:

Penguins – rockhopper and Megallanic
Long tailed meadow lark
Austral thrush
Turkey vulture
Striated caracara

Dark-faced ground tyrant (honest – that’s its name!)
Black-browed albatross
Imperial shag
Tussac bird
Cobb’s wren
Blackish oystercatcher
Black-crowned night heron

Ruddy headed goose
Kelp goose
Flightless steamer duck
Upland goose
Crested duck
Speckled teal

Have photos of most of these – but can only post a few because of internet problems.

I am still writing this on Thursday morning because the ship took on a bit of a “swell” (!) last night and writing and reading became slightly uncomfortable.  We both took precautionary medication and slept really well.  We are now just pulling into port in the sheltered harbour at Port Stanley (8.00 Thursday morning).

The internet connection is really poor so I hope I am able to upload this today…

We are on board - up, up and away!

Well – we are actually on board the Fram and on our way!  Unfortunately the Wi-Fi is not brilliant on the ship so there will only be occasional photos and I will have to reduce the quality.

There is a gap of a day because I could not get Internet access until Tuesday. So – this is being uploaded on Tuesday 18^th…

Monday morning we were up at 5.00 for early breakfast before leaving for the small internal airport.  When we got down to the lobby there were 100 people who seem to have arrived from nowhere! All nationalities are represented.  The flight from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia took 4 hours and the plane was packed – all with people on the trip (including some crew).

On arrival we were taken on a tour of the Tierra del Fuego National Park – and posted a card from the Post Office at the ‘end of the world’.  Saw our first birds – unfortunately we don’t know what they are (need help from out friend Carl Chapman!).  There was a yellow finch, an ibis and some geese (Upland and Ashy-headed we now think).

Then, off to the dockside to meet up with the MS Fram. She looks comfortingly big – though she is small in terms of cruise ships.  Some security to go through as we embark and then to cabin 317.  In estate agent speak it is ‘neat’ – but well-organised and comfortable.  Rocky the penguin sits looking out of the porthole – pining for the ice.  We had a chance to wander around the ship to get our bearings before the all-important safety briefing – everyone seemed to be paying more attention than they do on an aeroplane!

After our first meal on board we all met with the captain and his staff and then were introduced to the 10 or so ‘experts’ (ornithologists, geologists, photographers…) who will make this trip such a good learning experience.

Unpacking was done carefully with everything stored away – very shipshape.  We have promised ourselves that we will be very tidy.  Indeed, if we exist in this space for 2 weeks we may cancel our home extension plans.

The weather is unbelievable. Monday evening was balmy and sunny; today, Tuesday, is cloudier but the wind is just a breeze and the sea is flat calm.  You would get more seasick walking across the Tyne Bridge.  I would love to regale you with stories of 40 foot waves and being lashed to the mast to stop being thrown overboard but it is not the case.  We are happy to have settled tummies and no drama!

At breakfast, after a reasonable night’s sleep, we saw our first penguins – just brief glimpses of some rockhoppers swimming by the boat.  Tomorrow, on the Falkland Islands we will get very close to a good number of birds.  Later we captured our first decent bird photographs – see below.  We know what it is – but do you?  You will have to check Carl’s comments, which I am confident he will make on the blog.

We also attended lectures which were to help prepare us for our first landings tomorrow (Wednesday).  We will be using the Polar Cirkel boats (just 8 people at a time) as we visit two of the outlying Falkland Islands.  We are promised albatross, cormorant and penguin colonies and many other birds as well.

Another task was to get fitted with our special rubber boots which we have to wear when setting foot on Antarctica later in the trip.  We were issued with our weather proof jackets yesterday.  In future we will be out bird watching looking like Tweedledum and Tweedledee in our matching gear…

So – it is mid-afternoon on Tuesday and we are off to the Internet Café to see if we can load this up.  Hopefully it will be successful and you can continue to follow our adventure.

Wet weather

BA is really stretching our packing plans.  Today there is thunder and it is raining gatos y perros!! Have had to borrow an umbrella from the hotel.  First visit was the art gallery - full of surprises - Degas, Gaugin, Rembrandt, van Gogh... Now in a little cafe having empanadas (like a little Greggs' pasty), one with pollo and one with jamon y queso.  How cool is this - using freeWiFi to tell everyone what we are doing - even if all we are doing is eating pasties and drinking coffee.  This is, of course, our last day and night on dry land for quite a while...

Yesterday we dropped into the main Cathedral and, by chance, there was a  very good choir singing some James McMillan - a composer that Ryton Choral members will remember with mixed feelings!

Buenos Aires in a day

After an excellent breakfast we booked ourselves on to an open top bus tour of BA.  It took about 3 hours and made sure we have a good idea where everything is. People have asked us why we are going somewhere so cold for Christmas - well, I can assure you it ain't 'arf hot here!  It has made planning our packing quite difficult.

My ears got so hot listening to the commentary on the bus that I gave up on it.

As part of the trip we will be visiting the Falkland Islands (or Malvinas to the Argentines).  It is very clear that feelings still run high about the war of 1982.  Your Spanish does not have to be very good to understand this banner. (Well, Julia told me that it says that the Malvinas will be Argentine for ever)

After walking about in pushing 30 degrees C this afternoon we are back at the hotel for a shower before going out for dinner. Looks like barbecued beef could be on the menu...

Arrived in BA

Saturday morning - 08.45 - in the rather splendid Hotel Emperador in Buenos Aires.  Will post some photos later.
Yesterday was very tiring.
We were up at 03.50 and then took a taxi to Newcasle Airport for the 05.55 to Amsterdam.
But we didn't wake the cat....

Saw Jimmy Nelson (a note for those from local school football!) taking a group of young NUFC players to a Futsal tournament in Nice  ('nice' work if you can get it...).
Straightforward flight - then a 2 mile hike around Schipol to the gate for our next flight.  On board at 10.00 but did not take off until 10.45 because there was a broken seat in the crew area...
We now settled down for the 13 hour flight - the longest either of us has ever done. We flew with KLM - the service and food were good.
Julia got through a few films while I read Alexei Sayles' biography of his childhood "Stalin Ate My Homework". I finished it before we arrived - can't remember the last time I read a book in one sitting.  But, there again, I don't usually sit in one place for 13 hours!
After the torture of the flight we were not best pleased to stand in a queue for 2 hours to get through Argentine passport control.  To our relief our bags had travelled on the plane with us so we jumped into the car we had organised to get here to the hotel.  We tipped into bed at local time 23.00 - which would have been 02.00 in the UK.  So about 22 hours to get here.
Down to breakfast now after a fitful night's sleep.

That penguin has appeared again...

Looking a bit weary after getting through Argentine passport control

The Hotel Emperador....

We're off....

4.00 in the morning here - up and at 'em.  Both raring to go and excited.  Just need a sherpa to carry our ridiculously heavy bags (but they are not available where we are going, are they?).
Next access to wifi will probably be the Hotel Emperador in Buenos Aires - speak to you then...

Last day of preparation

Up early to check in for our flights to Amsterdam and then on to Buenos Aires tomorrow. It's going to be an early start as we leave Newcastle Airport at 06.00 - not sure I will be blogging before we leave! We should arrive (and hopefully so should our bags) into BA at about 20.30.

A weather check is interesting....

Newcastle 0C
Buenos Aires 30C
Port Stanley (Falkland Islands) 13C
Ushuaia (Tierra del Fuego) 12C
Base Esperanza (Antarctic Archipelago) -1C

As they said on 2012..."that's all good then"

First penguin

Julia sights our first penguin - we think it's a rockhopper....

Be prepared 3

Russian earwarmers, sunglasses and paper hat from the (early) Christmas cracker - ready for action...

Anticipation

I hope my blog is as good as this one (posted today, 12th Decmber).
It is from the ship we will be travelling on.  The trip before ours is just finishing - they will be re-stocking the reindeer meat for us on 17th December...

Click here - and be envious....
http://mvfram.blogspot.co.uk/

Be prepared 2

Will Julia get all this in her rucksack?

Be prepared

One day closer - so like all good boy scouts - let's be prepared....

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks to all of you who have responded with good wishes.  Preparations are well in hand - there have been many visits to Cotswolds, Go Outdoors, Blacks et al. and lots of parcels seem to be arriving from internet shopping.  Are they all my Christmas presents or more thermal underthings for Julia? Neither of us has started dreaming about penguins, icebergs and seasickness - yet...
I'm away for the next two days on school football business so Wednesday and Thursday will have to be my packing days. But all the camera equipment is safely stowed in a rucksack - that is staying with me in the cabin of the 'planes.
We are having a pre-Christmas and a post-Christmas this year as we won't have room in our bags for mountains of presents. There may be a photo posted before we go of us wearing various 'anti-freeze' gear that Santa may be bringing....

Well - I'm starting to get the hang of this (it's quite easy really....).

We leave on Friday 14th December, flying to Amsterdam and then on to Buenos Aires.  We have 3 nights in BA and then fly down to Ushuaia on Tierra del Fuego.  Here we board the MS Fram and sail to the Falkland Islands, South Georgia, South Orkney, South Shetland and the Antarctic archipelago.  Think we can guarantee a white Christmas!
Hopefully there will be lots of wonderful photos to share.

Here is some information about the ship on which we will sail to, possibly, some of the roughest waters in the world.

We have an 'N' class cabin

Sunday night, 9th December - have just set up this blog before we set off for our big adventure travelling to Antarctica.  Have never blogged before - so bear with me! More later...