South Georgia (2)

Today, Christmas Eve, we tied up in the sheltered bay at Grytviken, the only place that is populated throughout the year on South Georgia.  Before our landings we were visited by members of  the South Georgia Heritage Trust who explained the very expensive work they are undertaking to eradicate rats, an introduced species, from the island.  The rats came ashore with the sealers and whalers and are having a devastating effect on the wildlife – especially the smaller birds whose eggs they eat.  We pledged some money (as did many of our fellow travellers) to the charity – enough to clear a hectare of land.  Workers from the Post Office also came on board to sell us postcards and stamps. Some of you will receive these – but it may be February before they arrive!

Then our landings began at this derelict whaling station which now houses a research centre – plus a museum and shop, a church…and the Post Office (there really is a man with a Royal Mail shirt on…).  This landing was more about history than wildlife although the obligatory seals (Fur and Elephant) and penguins were in evidence, plus some Antarctic Terns.

Our first visit was to the small and beautifully kept cemetery where Ernest Shackleton is buried.  Very recently the ashes of Frank Wild, whom Shackleton called his “right arm”, have also been interred there.

Next all 200 of us crammed into the immaculate white wooden church, shipped from Norway in 1913, for a simple service.  The Captain spoke; we sang two carols and the church bells rang.  There was also some impromptu carol singing around the small wheezy organ afterwards – which I joined in lustily of course.  It was quite emotional and a special moment that we will always treasure.  It is amazing to reflect on who has been here before us and what privations they must have suffered working in this remote place.  However, for us, once again the weather was kind.  The sun was out and you could move about without hat and gloves.

We also had a thought for all those so many miles away with whom we normally spend Christmas.

The museum is fascinating, showing how the whalers and sealers went about their trade.  In a building next door is something even more ‘mind boggling’ – a reconstruction of the ‘James Caird’, the boat that brought Shackleton and 5 others 800 miles from Elephant Island to South Georgia and salvation.  You know it is a remarkable story when you read it – when you see the boat, it just fills you with amazement.  These men were certainly a hardy breed – quite extraordinary.

I am writing this mid-afternoon on Monday 24^th December.  We now have the rest of today and tomorrow at sea.  We are heading south and are already surrounded by icebergs – which seem to be getting bigger.  The sea is calm, the sky is blue – it is a wonderful sight.

The Norwegians celebrate Christmas on Christmas Eve so tonight there is a special buffet dinner.  First we all met in the lounge where the Captain led another Christmas service with some carols.  Ryton Choral Society was to the fore with the singing... Before we ate, the catering manager explained some of the Scandanavian 'delicacies' on offer.  Thankfully turkey and Brussels sprouts also appeared.  We celebrated with our first glasses of red wine.

The Captain had 'parked up' in a secluded bay so that we could eat our meal in peace.  As I complete this piece at 22.45 we have set off again and the ship is beginning to roll a little.  Hopefully we will not suffer for our little bit of over-eating.

Tomorrow, Christmas Day, we will be at sea.  We wish all our many readers a very Merry Christmas. There is a rumour that Santa is coming...